Pavadai is a cone shaped, ankle length skirt with lots of pleats. This was the traditional attire for girls and young women in Tamil Nadu.
Origins
The roots of the pavadai can be traced to early Indian courts. Initially, the pattu pavadai (silk skirt) was a garment worn by the elite. Young girls in palaces wore it. The pavadai was made from luxurious silks and woven with gold or siver zari. It symbolised wealth and status.
Intricate borders were made on the skirts with temple borders, flowers and mangoes.
Over time, the common people started adopting this dress and the fabrics transitioned from heavy, luxurious silks to handloom cotton for daily wear. Silk was used for special occasions and festivals.
Transition from pavadai to saree
In South India, young girls used to wear a pavadai with sattai (blouse) i.e. two piece, skirt and blouse. Cotton cloth for day-to-day wear and pattu (silk) for occasions, and festivals.
In adolescence, pavadai was worn with a blouse and dhavani (half-saree). Dhavani was a cloth measuring approx. 2 -2.5 metres, tucked into the pavadai on the left side, draped around the hips and then diagonally over the blouse on the left shoulder.
When the women got married, they transitioned out of the pavadai completely and saree was worn by them.
Evolution to today
Though the traditions are still held on to in most parts of Tamil Nadu, it has been influenced by modern fashion influences.
Traditional cloth like Kanchipuram silk, Chettinad cotton and Sharmavaram silk still rule the roost. However, modern pavadais are lighter and have more breathable materials like synthetic silks, organza, crepe and georgette.
While earlier, pavadais had colours which were bright and auspicious like reds, greens and yellow, it has transitioned to pastel tones, monochrome sets and even mix of colours like peacock blue or bluish-violet and also printed varieties.
Earlier, zari work was the main embellishment for the pavadai. Now, it is embellished with thread embroidery, beads, zardozi, mirror work and so on.
Pavadai is now being blended with the lehenga cuts creating a fusion style which seems to be very popular.
Leave a comment